And hello again. This time, I’m writing to you from the lobby of the Hotel Massimo D’Azeglio in the near center of Rome. I’ve spent last night and some of today walking around and seeing the sights (last night was my dry run with a map, so I could look touristy in a less noticeable way, and because of that, today I didn’t have to use it maybe but once). I was going to try and meet up with some of the group from LML, but I got really tired, and the bed was very comfy … so you can see where that went. In my stumbling around last night, I saw a whole lot (apparently Via Cavour is like a straight line to the Roman Forum, which is the street I’ve been on) – the Colosseum, the Forum, the Capitol Museum, the Trevi Fountain, and a whole lot more. This morning I looked less lost and also went to see the Spanish Steps. Because I’m not exactly made of money, I decided to do this the best way possible – I took pictures and didn’t go on the tours. (I still have to worry about how much overcharge I’ll have to pay for Ryanair.)
And this might be a good time to introduce some things I’ve learned that could help people coming to Italy (or for the first one, overseas).
Travel tip one: For those of you that don’t know, Ryanair charges out the rear for excess baggage weight. So, if you’re like me and going overseas for an extended period of time, like say a month or so, just fly direct with another airline. It’s cheaper in the long run. Also, if you pick the lower baggage weight (because you think you can pack light), be aware that you can’t go back and change it once you pay. (Super-suckage.) Lesson learned. Ryanair is good for weekend getaways or a week-long vacation, not long-term travel.
Travel tip two: Use any Italian you have in your word arsenal. It makes people more disposed to be nice to you over here. Yes, lots of people in hotels and shops and such speak English, it’s true, but when you can order your food or ask to check in to your hotel in the native tongue, somehow it opens a little door that makes the transaction that much nicer or efficient. Essentially, you look like a lot less of a tourist just because you’re trying. It’s good to keep in mind, even if you’re looking at a map and are confused half the time. (I’ve been using as much Italian as I can, though sometimes it does slip into a bit of Engliano, if you get my meaning.)
Travel tip three: Don’t be a pushover/don’t look like a tourist/don’t look American. I know this seems strange as a combination, but in my opinion and from what I have seen, the more American you act, the easier you are to rip off. That’s just a fact. What I can suggest specifically for Italy is to relax. The less worried or harried you look, the more Italian your attitude will seem. You know how I mentioned something called Italian time? That’s what I mean when I say that nearly nothing starts on time here. For each concert we had, I think one actually started at the time given (most were 30min late), and that’s just how it goes. So slip on your Italian vision and slow down a bit. For things like buses and trains, it is good to be on time (you’ll get a better seat and your luggage on earlier) but it isn’t uncommon for them to run late. (I think they make up for that with … well, speeding, which will still get you to your destination either on time or even early. Crazy, huh?)
Travel tip four: I don’t think they do this in America, but I could be wrong – when you go out to eat at a restaurant, you will be (usually) charged for your seat (maybe 1 euro or so) and have a service charge added for your cameriere. It’s a little unusual to tip, which I know is against common policy for Americans, but the standard wages here are better so it’s not customary. Tax isn’t usual (though in a hotel, and certainly in Rome, you can expect something like a city tax – called a VAT.)
Travel tip five: Don’t buy anything you can’t take with you. I mean in terms of souvenirs, not things like food or drink or necessities. There are vendors selling everything from large sunhats to play sets of armor for kids, and while it might be fun to use them now, it’s a pain to pack them up (or have arguments about what to keep and what to ditch). (No, I haven’t done any arguing with myself. I actually did throw out some shoes and most of my score print outs, but I still have my heavy Poppea score … sheesh.)
Travel tip six: Don’t pay for things if you don’t have to. Simple as that. Wifi, water, et cetera. (Toilets – well, you’ll need 1€ for them, but the ones you pay for are more likely to be clean. I’ll leave that at that.)
Travel tip seven: It may seem odd, and you may not want to, but it isn’t such a bad idea to go to the grocery store instead of eating out for each meal. Personally, I can tell you that eating out can run you from 15€ (that’s on the cheap) to 25€-30€ (more average for a larger city like Rome), and you can get a lot more for a lot less at the grocery store. Look for names like Conad or COOP or (Super) A&O. These are all good stores you can visit and get basic food items on the cheap. (There’s a Conad in the Rome Termini, which is a great option.) And when it comes to the grocery store, it’s a good idea to bring a shopping bag. Places like Conad can offer you cheap plastic ones, but it is an eternally better idea to bring (or buy) your own. (Conad does sell reusable polyesterish bags, and they’re rather cheap.) It looks really smart to bring your own bag to the checkout here, and it’s also more environment-friendly.
Travel tip eight: Rome isn’t the cleanest city in the world. Neither is Venice, or Florence, or any of the major tourist stops. In Rome, there’s trash all over the place, graffiti on monuments (some of it is quite creative, I have to say), homeless people sleeping in corners or begging for change, and street vendors in every available nook and cranny hawking something. Just be conscious of what you’re doing and where you’re headed. I can look past the grime and appreciate the beauty of the old city, because that’s how I am, but you should (when traveling) take into account that these cities aren’t the cleanest or friendliest-looking places. It’s a simple fact. Rome still has that ancient magic. It’s just as urban as Atlanta, though, so be aware.
Travel tip nine: Rome, like many cities in Italy, is very pedestrian. Drivers are used to pedestrians, and vice versa, but this is another one of those “be conscious” things. I haven’t seen a traffic accident since I’ve been over here, and compared to America, the driving is a lot more defensive, but that only means that you should pay attention. Also, this means bring a good pair of shoes. I recommend something with a lot of support – hard-soled sandals or tennis shoes are a good idea, particularly on these marble and stone streets.
Travel tip ten: It may feel scary to be in a place like Rome, or somewhere else in Italy, when you aren’t a native and don’t necessarily look like you fit in. That’s okay. Rome is a big city, and a giant tourist trap, and that should be scary! Good for you, thinking clearly. Just remember that over all, you are in this foreign place to experience it and to enjoy yourself. Play it smart, and you’ll wind up enjoying a whole lot more than you think you would.
I have loads of things I could say about Rome and travel and things that might help anyone reading have a better experience, but I’ll cap it at that for now. I really need to invest in a better suitcase for travel … my carry-on is fine, but it’s time to find something that doesn’t flop over like a disobedient two-year-old each time I pull it. (I feel like I should be the star of some Mr. Bean in Rome skit.)
I don’t have to get on the bus for another two and a half hours, so for right now I think I’ll enjoy a video or something, and then maybe head back out to Santa Maria Maggiore and eat my lunch. (That’s one of those really nice surprise sights – you’re walking along a row of businesses and suddenly there’s a very large church and an even larger piazza around it. The Spanish Steps are similar, but a lot more obvious about what you’re approaching. Plus, the huge crowds will tell you what you’re looking at far in advance.)
That leads me to travel tip eleven: When in doubt, follow the crowds. They will lead you to the monuments or back to the main street. I learned that the hard way last night, but it is the truth (more so at day than night, but you get the picture).
And I’ll call it at that. Hopefully coming to you next from Dublin. Baci a tutti.
Update: with photos.
sarah price, soprano 